Taiwan's textile industry has experienced a shift in wages, the cancellation of quotas by the WTO, and the lack of scenery. It was once called the sunset industry. However, who can expect that this industry, once described as “sunsetâ€, will be the top three in Taiwan’s foreign exchange earning? All of this is the Taiwan textile company's unremitting spirit, continuous research and development and innovation, successfully created a world-renowned functional textiles, become the first choice for international brand suppliers, and is a "sports partner" for athletes on the sports field.
In addition, the textile industry is a fashion industry and a technology industry. With the new trend driven by wearable devices and the demand for old-age care, smart textiles are in the ascendant, and the Taiwan textile industry is not absent and actively develops related products. This article will share with the interviews of Xu Xudong, Chairman of Far East Group, and Huang Weiji, Secretary General of Taiwan Textiles Association, and bring readers together to review the process of Taiwan's textile industry getting out of trouble and look to the future.
Facing challenges and finding solutions
1997 was the highest performance of Taiwan's textile industry. Despite the financial turmoil, Taiwan's textile industry was solid and established a record of 629 billion yuan (NT), exports of 16.66 billion US dollars and US$13 billion. . However, great changes have taken place in Asia at the time, and Taiwan is also facing a situation of lack of labor and the shifting of textile and garment factories.
South Korea has become the biggest competitor in Taiwan's textile industry. In order to promote the upgrading of the textile industry, Daegu City of South Korea formulated the "Daqi and Gyeongbuk Region Fiber Industry Cultivation Program" in 1998 and proposed the "Milan Plan". It is hoped that Daegu City will reach the level of Italy and Germany in clothing and technology, making Korea a whole body. The world's fiber and clothing powers. The core of the “Milan Plan†is to strengthen technology research and development, focusing on the development of high value-added projects. The ultimate goal is to transform Daegu City into “Asia Milan†and become a fashion town in Asia. Although it did not succeed in the end, it really put pressure on the Taiwan textile industry.
The Chinese economy is booming. Taking spinning as an example, Taiwan's production in the heyday can reach 4 million spindles (a spindle consumes about 30 kilograms of cotton), while the mainland has a lot of equipment, but its production capacity is considerable. In 2000, the mainland reached 100 million ingots and the textile economy developed rapidly.
Wage rises and labor is insufficient. In the late 1980s, wages and labor shortages caused the downstream garment factories to move to areas with lower production costs. In the late 1990s, not only was the shortage of labor in downstream enterprises, but also the mid-stream enterprises were faced with the problem of insufficient recruitment. In particular, the dyeing and finishing industry needed three shifts, and the most serious work was lacking.
At that time, South Korea had a "Milan Plan", then what about Taiwan? Huang Weiji, secretary-general of the Taiwan Textile Extension Association, recalled that the Japanese textile industry was mainly focused on the eight major chemical fiber factories. Later, an industrial white paper was formulated to promote the industry with know-how, mainly from upstream chemical fiber, spinning and weaving. Cloth, dyeing and finishing emphasizes environmental protection, but the problem of lack of work is serious. Japan's Toray, Teijin and other large manufacturers launched new synthetic fiber products. Later, Taiwan's chemical fiber and spinning companies introduced new synthetic fiber (Taiwan called new chemical fiber), which has moisture absorption and perspiration function, but the price is high and consumers do not Knowing its benefits, coupled with the new cross section of the new fiber, Taiwan did not have such technology, so turned to Japan to buy technology, including Taiwan's four major chemical fiber factories such as ZTE, Far East, Shin Kong and South Asia to buy technology from Japan.
The turning point of Taiwan's textile industry
As far as the core and development of the Japanese textile industry is concerned, such an approach can be used as a reference for Taiwan's textile industry. Therefore, Taiwan's four major chemical fiber plants began to produce new chemical fiber, but the problem came, the yarn mill is not clear what the purpose of the yarn is. What kind of fabric can it be? Is it a shirt or a home wear? The entire process from the emergence of new chemical fiber to fabrics, at least three years, so long process can not respond to the ever-changing market demand, so the relevant departments decided to accelerate the development of chemical fiber to fabric. Therefore, the spinning extension and other departments joined the upstream and downstream textile mills to form an industrial chain, starting from the chemical fiber plant and extending to the fabric factory. After three years of trials, any new chemical fiber will come to Taiwan and it will take only one year to produce new fabrics. Since then, the technical speed of Taiwan's textile industry has been improved, and the fabrics developed have become more diverse, such as skiing, jogging, yoga, baseball and other fields.
Since 1995, textile quotas have been phased out. By 2005, the global textile and clothing products import quota system was abolished, and the global textile trade officially entered liberalization. With the rise of regional economy and low-cost competition in emerging markets, the strategy of quantity pricing is no longer in line with the international trend. To survive in low-price competition, it is necessary to transform and upgrade and develop towards high value. Therefore, Taiwanese textile industry responds to challenges with high value-added functional textiles and a full range of marketing services. Taiwan's textile industry has excellent foundation for man-made fiber development, coupled with the experience and ability to develop fabrics, combining the strengths of the two strengths to create high-quality, reasonably priced functional fabrics, and has become the first choice for international brands to purchase functional fabrics.
Functional textiles include antibacterial, deodorizing, anti-UV, heat preservation, waterproof, windproof and other functions, such as anti-wrinkle shirts, warm quilts, breathable shoes, moisture wicking sportswear, constant temperature underwear, etc., are commonly known functional textiles. However, since functional textiles are usually “invisible, intangible, and used,†it is not easy for buyers and consumers to directly distinguish the product from the appearance and touch of the product, resulting in the inability of such products to be marketed. Fully demonstrate its special functionality. Therefore, there is a need in the market for a credible independent verification agency to provide a set of objective verification services for functional textiles. On the one hand, it can assist enterprises to sell and expand the market, on the other hand, buyers and consumers can pass this. Verify the mark to identify the quality of the functional textile.
Therefore, Spinning will begin to actively plan and promote Taiwan's Functional Textiles Verification Mark (TFT). Currently, 22 certification standards have been formulated to provide product verification services for functional textile manufacturers and manufacturers. The verification stamps have been in mainland China and Taiwan. The United States, the European Union, Japan and other countries and regions have completed registration, and also cooperate with well-known verification companies such as ITS, SGS and so on. In addition, Spinning will help manufacturers that comply with the “Standard Verification System†to promote their products. As a marketing tool, they will be promoted at major exhibitions such as ISPO, EO, OR and intertextile exhibitions.
Textiles made from functional chemical fibers are light, thin, windproof and breathable, making them ideal for athletes. With the international brands Nike and adidas using Taiwan's functional fabrics to make ready-to-wear, other brands have followed suit. Many people don't know that the jerseys worn by the Korean football team at the 2002 Olympic Games are from Taiwan. In the 2010 World Cup in South Africa, a group of national teams from Brazil, the Netherlands, Portugal, the United States, South Korea, Australia, New Zealand, Serbia and Slovakia wore Taiwan-made PET bottles to recycle woven fabrics made of recycled polyester fabrics. It will showcase the first-class technology of Taiwan's textile industry and show the characteristics of Taiwan's textile industry. By the time of the 2014 World Cup in Brazil, almost all of Taiwanese fabrics were used, and even the jersey fabrics of the first to fourth teams came from Taiwan. The important role played by Taiwan's functional fabrics in textiles in the sports sector is self-evident.
As the times change and consumers wear habits change, the distance between sportswear and fashion is getting closer. Huang Weiji talked about the ISPO exhibition in Munich in January 2016. "Armani's ski suits are quite fashionable. Today, the boundaries between function, fashion and sportswear are becoming more and more blurred. In the future, the textile extension will also hope to use design. The cultivation of talents, combined with excellent functional fabrics, allows Taiwan's textile industry to not only carry forward in sports and outdoor wear, but also to the fashion and ready-to-wear industry!"
Going to the future, starting again
Xu Xudong, chairman of the Far East Group, said that Taiwanese textile companies have matured in the field of polyester fiber, and have been researching the characteristics, structure and weaving of yarn for many years, and have been able to develop more functions for textiles to cater to diverse consumer needs. At present, Taiwan's textile industry is actively developing towards smart clothing. Xu Xudong expects that the future apparel can reach the movie StarTrek. A thin and comfortable clothes can contain all the required functions, and Taiwan has an advantage in textile technology and R&D. It is possible to reach within 20 years. In addition, the current environmental protection theme has arisen, Taiwan's textile industry is skilled in this field, and the environmental protection theme is in its infancy. Therefore, sustainable development can be achieved on environmentally friendly textiles, and the prospects are quite promising.
Taiwan's textile industry has undergone many transformations and transformations. It not only possesses the ability of product research and development technology, but also becomes a well-known functional textile supplier. How to strengthen the original advantages, enhance the competitiveness of the industry and occupy an important place in the global market depends on the efforts of all the players.
Regarding the future development vision of Taiwan's textile industry, Huang Weiji briefly sums up the following three points: First, to continuously develop sports and outdoor textiles to enhance market competitiveness; second, to effectively combine functionality and fashion, and extend the reach to the field of fashion garments. Let the function become fashionable; the third is to adapt to the market trend, combine technology and textile advantages, and develop smart textiles.
Looking back on the past and looking forward to the future, Taiwan's textile industry continues to develop high-quality outdoor and sports textiles with excellent and excellent technology, while creating functional fashion apparel. In addition, it combines IT technology to develop intelligent textiles and expands its application in medical care. Modern people pursue health and care for the needs of the elderly. As Xu Xudong said, Taiwan's textile industry is no longer a labor-intensive industry but a high-tech industry in the past through one-stop production, existing technology and technological development. In addition, it combines environmental protection, intelligence, fashion, design, etc. The theme will definitely recreate new glory.
Editor in charge: Liu Xiaomei
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